Fall is for planting ...

In the fall, the ground remains warm, allowing your freshly planted tree or shrub to produce new root growth before the cold weather of winter hits. As the weather grows colder, the plants will go dormant. However, the root system will continue to grow until the ground begins to freeze. Once the ground begins to thaw and warm in spring, the developed root system will kick off with growth much earlier in the season.

When planting a tree remember,

planting deeper is NOT better!

Posted on http://www.freshare.net/
By University of Mo. ExtensionYou don’t have to break your back when transplanting a tree, said University of Missouri horticulturist Chris Starbuck. Research on tree root growth after transplanting suggests that you do not have to dig a deep hole.

“In most soils, 90 percent of the actively absorbing root tips are within 12 inches of the soil surface, so it’s important to create a soil environment surrounding a new tree in which roots can grow easily near the surface. Plant trees no deeper than they grew in the nursery into soil that has been loosened 8 to 12 inches deep over an area two to three times the diameter of the tree’s soil ball.

Place excavated soil on a tarp to make it easier to return soil to the hole after the tree is in place. Dig the hole only as deep as the soil ball and place the ball on undisturbed soil. If the soil is heavy clay, plant slightly higher than the tree was grown in the nursery. Backfill so that the ball is about half-exposed and stable.

Remove any twine or rope around the trunk. Many tree planters put water in the hole at this point to settle the soil. If the ball is being planted high and the top will project out of the ground, remove the burlap from the top of the ball to prevent wicking of water from the ball where the burlap is exposed. Finally, finish placing backfill soil around the ball and tamp gently.

Roots of turf grasses compete with tree roots for water and minerals, so it is important to mulch a new tree as soon as possible. Mulch should be no deeper than 2 to 3 inches, tapering to less than an inch next to the trunk.

Until the roots grow out into the surrounding soil, the tree depends entirely on water contained in the ball. Trees with soil balls need frequent watering with relatively small amounts of water for the first season after planting.

Be careful not to overfertilize a new tree. A soil test prior to planting will point out any deficiencies in phosphorous and potassium. Corrections can then be made while replacing backfill soil. Excessive nitrogen fertilization at planting time can promote top growth at the expense of root growth."

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Planning on planting this spring?

Planting trees is one of the most basic of environmental acts. It embraces the beauty of nature, helps clean the environment from the moment of planting forward, and sets one's mind on the well-being of future generations.
It also happens to be a smart economic decision. Studies show that trees increase property values and can significantly reduce heating and cooling costs if placed carefully. They also help to reduce air pollution, improve soil and water quality and shield living areas from noisy neighbors — whether those neighbors are people, school playgrounds or highways.
 ~ The Daily Green

When planting a tree remember,

planting deeper is NOT better!

Posted on http://www.freshare.net/
By University of Mo. Extension
You don’t have to break your back when transplanting a tree, said University of Missouri horticulturist Chris Starbuck. Research on tree root growth after transplanting suggests that you do not have to dig a deep hole. “In most soils, 90 percent of the actively absorbing root tips are within 12 inches of the soil surface, so it’s important to create a soil environment surrounding a new tree in which roots can grow easily near the surface. Plant trees no deeper than they grew in the nursery into soil that has been loosened 8 to 12 inches deep over an area two to three times the diameter of the tree’s soil ball.
Place excavated soil on a tarp to make it easier to return soil to the hole after the tree is in place. Dig the hole only as deep as the soil ball and place the ball on undisturbed soil. If the soil is heavy clay, plant slightly higher than the tree was grown in the nursery. Backfill so that the ball is about half-exposed and stable.
Remove any twine or rope around the trunk. Many tree planters put water in the hole at this point to settle the soil. If the ball is being planted high and the top will project out of the ground, remove the burlap from the top of the ball to prevent wicking of water from the ball where the burlap is exposed. Finally, finish placing backfill soil around the ball and tamp gently.
Roots of turf grasses compete with tree roots for water and minerals, so it is important to mulch a new tree as soon as possible. Mulch should be no deeper than 2 to 3 inches, tapering to less than an inch next to the trunk.
Until the roots grow out into the surrounding soil, the tree depends entirely on water contained in the ball. Trees with soil balls need frequent watering with relatively small amounts of water for the first season after planting.
Be careful not to overfertilize a new tree. A soil test prior to planting will point out any deficiencies in phosphorous and potassium. Corrections can then be made while replacing backfill soil. Excessive nitrogen fertilization at planting time can promote top growth at the expense of root growth."

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"The great French Marshall Lyautey once asked his gardener to plant a tree. The gardener objected that the tree was slow growing and would not reach maturity for 100 years. The Marshall replied, 'In that case, there is no time to lose; plant it this afternoon!'"
— John F. Kennedy

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Wickman's 90 Years and Growing

A Brief History of Wickman's by Fred Wickman:

Farming on the edge of town

The F.M. Emhoff Greenhouses began in 1922, according to company records. Floyd M. Emhoff and his wife, Love, owned and farmed 10 acres at 1345 S. Fort Ave., on the southwest edge of Springfield. The farm covered a city block bordered by Meadowmere and Bennett streets and Fort and Newton avenues. 

The Emhoffs built an eight-room two-story house with a full basement on the west side of Fort Avenue. In the center of the property, they erected about 40,000 square feet of greenhouses, along with other buildings for truck gardening and growing flowers and plants. The Emhoffs also had a flower shop in downtown Springfield.

Among the crops the Emhoffs grew in their fields were tomatoes, celery, cabbage and peppers. The greenhouses held cut flowers such as chrysanthemums, snapdragons, sweetpeas and carnations. Emhoff was a good farmer. His wife was a great cook. Customers knew the Emhoffs as hospitable people, according to an autobiography by Gus Wickman.

Wickman became acquainted with the Emhoffs because they were coal customers of Merchants Ice and Fuel, where Wickman was general manager. A friendship grew between the Emhoffs and Wickman.

As World War II drew to a close, Floyd Emhoff bought a cattle farm northwest of Springfield near Willard, Mo. The Emhoffs moved there and sold the downtown flower shop. Floyd also was ready to sell the 10 acres on Fort Avenue.

The ice and coal business was winding down as the war ended. So, Wickman told Emhoff   “…darned if I wouldn’t buy it.”  

The path from potatoes to posies

Gus and Frances Wickman took over June 26, 1945. They renamed it Wickman Gardens. 

That spring, the Wickmans planted cucumbers, lettuce, squash, beans and radishes alongside the Emhoff crops. Some grew in the greenhouses, too. Besides the bountiful fields and greenhouses, a flower shop hummed.

The Wickmans moved into the house in April 1946. Their son, G. Fred Wickman, was born July 6, 1946. While Frances labored at the hospital, Gus washed harvested celery. 

But flowers were the future. Before long, Wickman Gardens supplied eager distributors with large amounts of flowers cut from its fields and greenhouses.

Business moved from wholesale to retail. Customers lined up to buy spring bedding and vegetable plants. The flower shop took off, selling flowers for births to funerals, proms to weddings, church flowers to blossoms for business events. If you wanted a Christmas tree, you went to Wickman’s, particularly if you wanted it flocked by Gus. Wickman’s grew the best poinsettias.

Gus and Frances noted every customer’s birth date. Every year, when it arrived, Wickman Gardens delivered a little vase with a jaunty flower or two and a sprig of greenery to the birthday man or woman. It wasn’t really your birthday unless Wickman’s proclaimed it.

Gus, business leader, also served his city. He spent 12 years on the Springfield City Council, some as mayor pro tem.   

When G. Fred decided to pursue journalism, and his parents neared retirement, they looked for a successor. A Southwest Missouri State grad, Glenn Kristek, was the one.   

Garden Delights!

Let's talk Perennials!

One of the most delightful things about a garden

is the anticipation it provides.

~W.E. Johns

If you are reading this ... chances are you are a gardener. Of course, most gardeners carry other titles as well; teacher, fireman, accountant, clerk, truckdriver, nurse ... you get the picture. So, you might find it interesting to know that W. E. Johns, the gentleman quoted above, was really not famous for his finesse with landscape design or vegetable gardening.

Mr. Johns was a magazine editor and author. The magazine was "Popular Flying" and the books ... they were tales of adventure for young boys! It was his wit and reputation for entertaining anecdotes that resulted in an invitation to write a monthly feature for "My Garden" magazine; a feature that became a book titled "the Passing Show", published in 1937.

We think he most certainly must have been a gardener too ... else he would not have understood the wonderful anticipation brought on by gardening magazines in the spring and lists of new plant introductions!

Our New Perennials:
Alcea rosea ‘Fiesta Time’ (Hollyhock)

Alstroemeria ‘Mauve Majesty’ (Peruvian Lily)

Astilbe ‘Burgandy Red’ (False Spirea)

Coreopsis ‘Galaxy’ (Tickseed)

Coreopsis ‘Star Cluster’ (Tickseed)

Delphinium elatum New Millenium ‘Double Innocense’ (Larkspur)

Delphinium elatum New Millenium ‘Sweethearts’ (Larkspur)

Dianthus ‘Early Bird Chili’ (Pinks)

Dianthus ‘Early Bird Frosty (Pinks)

Eryngium ‘Blue Hobbit’ (Sea Holly)

Gaillardia aristata ‘Gallo Red’ (Blanket Flower)

Gaillardia ‘Fancy Wheeler’ (Blanket Flower)

Heuchera ‘Midnight Rose Select’ (Coral Bells)

Hosta ‘Loyalist’

Lobelia ‘Fried Green Tomatoes’ (Cardinal Flower)

Lilium Oriental ‘Coldplay’

Lilium Oriental ‘Acoustic’

Persicaria ‘Pink Elephant’ (Fleeceflower)

Platycodon ‘Astra Double Blue’

Platycodon ‘Astra Double White’

Prunella ‘Freelander Blue’

Perennials lend an incredible array of color, form and variety to a garden. There are plants suited for almost any sort of growing condition ... sun, shade, acidic, alkaline, damp or dry. Our Spring Open House is scheduled for the last weekend in March and the Perennial Greenhouse will be ready; filled to overflowing in fact. We start the gardening season this year with almost 8000 pots of perennials ...

Gardening is about enjoying the smell of things growing in the soil, getting dirty without feeling guilty, and generally taking the time to soak up a little peace and serenity.
~Lindley Karstens

Bald Cypress Trees- A Missouri Native

The Bald Cypress (Taxodium distichum) tree is a Missouri native recommended for both residential and commercial landscapes.

Bald Cypress is a beautiful specimen tree that looks like a evergreen, but is actually a deciduous-needled conifer. It is interesting to note that there are living Bald Cypress trees known to be over 1,000 years old! These trees are possibly some of the oldest living things east of the Mississippi River.

Bald Cypress have no serious insect or disease problems, but bagworms and mites are occasional insect pests that can affect the vigor and appearance of trees in the landscape.

Unlike evergreen hemlocks, spruces, and junipers, Bald Cypress is very sensitive to horticultural oils. So if you try to control this mite with oils, you'll do more damage to the tree than the mites will! Traditional pesticides such as Carbaryl (Sevin) are typically recommended to knock down Bald Cypress rust mites which are actually eriophyid mites - not spider mites. Use a 10-power hand lens if you want to see the rust mites on the leaves, but their white cast off skins and rusty foliage color are two easy diagnostic characteristics. Thorough spray coverage of the foliage is necessary to control all types of mites.

The Best Choices for Pet & Plant Friendly Ice Melt!

Snow doesn't slow these guys down ... but some types of ice melt used on streets, steps and sidewalks certainly can!

We offer CMA (Calcium Magnesium Acetate) as a safe, affordable product to use around homes and businesses to keep sidewalks, steps, etc. clear. It works best as a preventative application and to prevent re-icing. Avoid calcium chloride and magnesium chloride if possible - as they are definitely not pet friendly.

Whatever product you are considering, be sure to look for a label that lists ingredients! There are more brands on the market now than ever before and some claims on packaging are confusing. Remember, no matter which product you choose, the best way to protect pets is clean their feet after they have spent time walking or playing in treated areas.

The best way to protect trees, shrubs and grass is NOT TO USE TOO MUCH. Damage to shrubs as shown below is all too common along sidewalks and near entrance steps!

Take Steps to Prevent Salt Damage to Home Landscape

Patrick Byers, Horticulture Specialist

During the winter, people rush to the car wash to rid their vehicle of accumulating salts. Just as salts cause vehicles to corrode, it can also create problems for landscape plants according to Patrick Byers, a horticulture specialist with University of Missouri Extension.

Winter storms result in tons of salt added to the roads and sidewalks each year. When snow is cleared, it often ends up being sprayed, shoveled, and piled on trees, lawns, and perennial beds. “The symptoms of salt injury include stunted yellow foliage, premature autumn leaf coloration, death of leaf margins, and twig dieback. On evergreens, needles may turn yellow or brown in early spring,” said Byers.

Salt damage is often confined to branches facing a street. Many plants can recover from an occasional salt spray. If it is a yearly occurrence however, death of the plant may result. To prevent salt damage, do not plant closer than 50 feet from the road. If this is not feasible, screens of fencing or burlap can be used to deter salt sprays. Snow from salted streets and sidewalks should not be piled onto plants.

Salts not only injure plants directly but also can change the structure of the soil, causing the soil to become compacted. “Where runoff of salt is unavoidable, flush the area around the plants in early spring by applying two inches of water over a two- to three-hour period, and then repeating three days later. This will leach much of the salt from the soil,” said Byers. If salt spray from the road surface is a problem, use water to rinse the foliage and branches of any affected plants when salt spray is heavy and again in early spring.

In problem areas, the salt levels in the soil can be tested. Contact the nearest county extension center for information on soil testing. “The common salt used on roads and streets is sodium chloride. Alternative salts include calcium chloride and calcium magnesium acetate. Although more expensive, they will not harm plants if applied at low levels,” said Byers. “Another idea is to use materials like sand or sawdust on slick surfaces to improve traction.”

Reprinted from:

UNIVERSITY OF MISSOURI EXTENSION

SOUTHWEST REGION NEWS SERVICE

Patrick Byers, horticulture specialist